History in Ahlat doesn't live behind glass — it sits right in the middle of the street. Centuries-old stone tombs share the block with Lake Van's shimmer and a silence the wind seems to carry in. Most visitors pick one or the other; a few manage both. So which is it tonight? Drop the dice on the table. Even, and you're walking the lakeshore. Odd, and you're wandering among the tombs. The decision was never really yours to make.